Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Many 24TES Questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Many 24TES Questions

    Hi all,

    I continued dismantling the Greeves today (1964 24TES). I got the metalastic bush remains out of the swing arm and dismantled the front forks. Luckily the front shocks and fork rubber bushes are in good condition and must have been replaced at some stage. There are now bits of Greeves spread everywhere in the garage. To help me I have a number of questions:

    1. The small plates that fit on the front axle and fold over the top of the leading forks to stop the wheel dropping out are missing. When searching the web I note many restored bikes don't have these.
    Can someone advise the width and material thickness please, or is there a factory drawing?

    2. How are the steering head bearings best removed from the frame and forks. Is it best to use some heat?

    3. Nylon rings were fitted around the from fork metalastic bushes but one is broken. I assume I will need to get someone to machine up as there appears to be no supplier.

    4. The blocks that clamp the handlebars are aluminium. Were they originally painted when they left the factory or left bare. Mine have black paint under the current non original colour.

    5. Do the wheel bearings come out just by tapping the axle out on the full width aluminium hubs? If so they won't move so will need to try some heat.

    6. Does anyone have dimensions or a drawing of the metal piece that bolts onto the swing arm to protect the rear sprocket and chain? Was this painted blue or zinc plated?

    7. Starting to think about what needs painting and what needs zinc or chrome plating. Was the rear brake pedal originally zinc plated? If it was painted all the paint would get chipped off when sliding on and refitting the pedal stop.

    8. While thinking of paint do most people powder coat or is there something better? The last trials bike I had with new powder coating was worn down to bare metal by the sides of my boots after 12 months.

    Thanks for reading this far and hopefully you will be able to contribute some of the answers.

    Regards

    Peter Barnett
    New Zealand

  • #2
    Peter,

    1. Wheel keepers - there is a drawing, just going to check my TES to make sure size is right.

    2. Bearing removal - Greeves did make an extractor and I made one but didn't find it particularly useful. Best way to get them out of the frame is to mig an old bolt across the bearing outer and knock them out. Use a sharp chisel-like object to get under the inner. Be careful with the tin covers though.

    3. I've never bothered much about the nylon rings.

    4. My clamps are plain alloy.

    5. Wheel bearings should knock out easily enough. make sure you support the hub well.

    6. Can't find a drawing for this but as far as I know, they were painted. Might be able to find something similar on another model.

    7. Rear brake pedal was cad plated - official, from the drawing!

    8. Never messed with powder coat. I use paint, either 2 pack or brushing enamel if the bike is to be used and abused!

    This should keep you going for a bit. I've just finished writing the next Leading Link and now I'm supposed to be getting the bike ready for Battlesbridge tomorrow so when I get a mo. I'll scan the wheel keeper drawing.

    Cheers,

    Rob

    Comment


    • #3
      Rob,

      Thanks for the helpful reply and hope you got to your event OK today.
      Our local classic group had their July trial today. I took part on a twin shock Fantic with only four pre 65 bikes there, the closest to a Greeves being a 9E engine with Greeves barrel in a Bantam frame.

      Best Regards,

      Peter Barnett

      Comment

      Working...
      X